Swimming with dolphins in Kaikoura, New Zealand
Have you ever sung Disney songs through a snorkel into the depths of the Ocean, whilst the wild waters of the New Zealand coast crashed against your head?
It’s not something I ever envisaged myself doing either, yet here I am. No, I’m not taking part in some kind of comedy sketch show. In fact, this bizarre ritual is actually quite serious business – I’m attracting dolphins.
Kaikoura is a sleepy little sea-side village near the top of New Zealand’s South Island. Out of season it’s a pretty quiet place to be. There’s a decent local fish and chip shop on the beachfront, a few cafes, an internet cafe – and not much else. In summer, however, the hostels fill up and the once-serene beachfront becomes a bustling hotspot of busy activity. It’s difficult to move in Kaikoura during the summer – and it’s all because of the Dolphins.
The resident species of these waters is the dusky dolphin. Larger than New Zealand’s other native dolphin species (the rare Hector dolphin) they also swim in larger groups – a Dusky pod can range anywhere from 100 to 800 dolphins. In the winter these numbers can even reach the thousands – which is why Kaikoura is so well known for Dolphin spotting. It also helps that Dusky’s are renowned for their acrobatics – making them a fantastic species to watch.
Various tour companies offer differing marine experiences in Kaikoura, but today I’ve opted for a Dolphin Swim. The great thing about Dolphin swimming in Kaikoura is that, unlike in some other countries, the tours are very eco-friendly. We haven’t attracted our pod by any artificial means - certainly not by feeding them, which would tamper with their environment and may even cause them to lose a natural ability to hunt fish. Instead, the dolphins come to us because they want to – this tour is on the Dolphins terms.
Which is where the singing comes in. I’m shouting my Disney song (you can actually sing anything but ‘Under The Sea’ is just the first thing that came into my head) through the snorkel as instructed, because the vibrations keep the dolphins entertained and less likely to swim off. I certainly hope the sight of me bobbing around uncontrollably in a wet-suit, doing an off-key rendition of the Little Mermaid, keeps them happy.
When we spotted our first pod from side of the tiny boat, I felt like I’d burst with excitement. I’ve been on large boat-watching tours before, but nothing can compare to seeing a Dolphin so clearly, up close, in its own natural environment. The back of the boat is so low that it’s touching the water – we sit on it to lower ourselves gently into the water. As I’m sitting there, ready to slip carefully off, a Dusky leaps out of the water alongside me – literally just inches from my face.
Once I’m in the sea it’s chaos. This certainly isn’t an experience for weak swimmers – the water is rough, although not unbearably so. The main dangers are the ten other swimmers in the water – flippers repeatedly graze my face so I swim away from the crowd. I’m concentrating so much on my swimming, and not straying too far from the boat, that I momentarily forget about the dolphins. But then I put my head into the water …
A dolphin is so close to my feet that I’m almost touching it. I can see the silky shimmer of its back, even in the murky green waters. It shoots off quickly, but as my eyes adjust to the sea I suddenly realise there are plenty more where he came from – about 40 to be exact.
My first reaction is actually one of fear – something I wasn’t expecting at all. It’s a very unusual sensation to be in the Ocean with live animals all around you – as if you’re in a muddy swimming pool and all the black maker lines are moving.
Once the initial shock passes, I start to really enjoy myself. Far from the hectic experience it had been just a few moments ago, swimming with the dolphins is remarkably peaceful and comforting. Every time my head sinks beneath the waves, I feel as though I’m in another world.
The dolphins are playful – they dive under us, over us and challenge us to swim alongside them. We can’t – they’re fast as lightening and seem to know it. Is it just my imagination or is that Dolphin laughing at me?
Although they’re playful none of us touch the Dolphins because our hands may carry harmful bacteria. We’ve been instructed to swim with our hands behind our backs, with is a bit of a challenge but worth it if it means protecting such a remarkable species.
That's the thing about wild water swimming - I just don’t feel the imbalance usually felt between animals and humans. It’s not like being in a Zoo, watching through the cage bars and wondering if the animals are truly happy. Nor is it like swimming with dolphins in captivity – where you can touch them but you also feel like they are there to service your own amusement. In wild dolphin swimming the tables are turned – you are there to amuse them – and you bend over backwards to please them. It's like being a visitor to someone's home - which I guess, in a way, it is.
Well, they've been fantastic hosts and I would definitely visit again.
Travel Information: Amy swam with The Dolphin Encounter. Adult Swimming in high season (December – November) costs $165 for adults, $150 for children.
